1.
Can I save costs by washing my own pet before a
grooming?
All pets are recommended to be bathed and cleaned at their grooming appointment.
There are many steps to grooming, and the proper finished result cannot be
obtained unless the entire process has been finished by your groomer. We
usually do a “rough” cut, followed by a bath and dry your dog, then a final
“finishing” cut is done.
2.
My pet's coat is very matted - can you comb this
out?
If your pet has minor matting, it is possible that it can be worked out. If your
pet has excessive matting, unfortunately, no. Your pet will have to be shaved
very close to the skin and start growing a new coat from scratch. Many people
believe that the brushing out process does not hurt, well it does, more than you
can imagine. It is inhumane to put that much stress and pain on your pet
just for beauty’s sake. Clippering off all of the fur is the only humane
solution to this problem.
3.
How much does it cost to groom my pet?
Grooming rates vary depending on the breed and size of your pet, the condition
the coat is in, the style of hair cut, and the behavior of your pet. A personal
consultation is required to receive a more direct quote on price. We can give
you an “estimate” over the phone, but until we see the pet it is very difficult
to give you an accurate quote. Please see the page titled “Grooming Fees”
4.
Do you tranquilize or sedate pets before you
bathe or groom them?
Absolutely not! We are equipped and trained to handle jittery, nervous dogs
without the use of sedatives or tranquilizers. If you feel you should medicate
your pet for calming reasons, that is for you and your doctor to handle and
decide. Any kind of medication or sedative should be discussed with your doctor
before administering to your pet. We feel that it is very dangerous for your
pet, and for our staff to work on a drugged pet. If your pet must be drugged to
be safely groomed, we suggest that you have a groomer who works right in the
vets office do the job.
5.
Should I have my dog shaved during the summer
months?
Not necessarily, it really depends on the breed. While some breeds benefit from
a closer clip during the hot months, some breeds can actually suffer worse in
the heat without their protective coat to keep the sun off of their skin. A
dog's coat acts as insulation against the heat as well as the cold. The key is
to keep it brushed and combed. It is actually the air that is trapped between
the individual hairs that enhances the insulating effect. Matted hair simply
traps heat against the skin. If the coat is badly matted, not only is it
uncomfortable and painful for the poor dog, it causes skin problems and sores as
well. If the coat is too badly matted to slide a comb through easily, shaving is
the only option.
6.
How do I get rid of ticks and fleas?
There are many flea and tick shampoos and preventatives available both over the
counter, and through your vet. Be sure and read the labels carefully before
applying them to your dog. Also, there are many topical solutions such as
Frontline® and Advantage® (and many others) that are applied to the dog's skin.
These are very effective. We use and suggest
“Bio-Spot®” products, but please
consult your vet, as they are up on the newest trends in parasite prevention.
PREVENTION of these pests is much easier than removing them. Flea and Tick
collars are NOT an effective preventative! In my opinion, the flea collars are
not worthy of money spent and will not fix your problem. If you have a
flea/tick infestation in your yard, prepare yourself for battle. A long one.
What you may apply to the yard and sleeping quarters today will do nothing to
the eggs that hatch in 10 days. You must repeat your chemical application every
10 days for at least 30 days to be effective. Be sure to keep your dog off the
treated ground until it is dry. Products should be rotated (one application of
one, the next application of the other) as ticks quickly develop immunity to a
chemical if it is used over and over. Adaptable little devils, huh?
Or, you could call an exterminator and let HIM take care of it.
7.
My dog has a foul odor even after I give him a
bath! What gives?
This could be caused by any number of things, but right off the bat, check his
ears. If he has drop ears (like a hound dog), they can't get good air
circulation and become stinky really fast. If ears pass inspection, check his
teeth and breath. If they have bad breath and then lick themselves, they can get
stinky faster that you can clean them! Have the vet clean the dog's teeth, then
get yourself a toothbrush and some doggie tooth gel and brush his teeth just
like you do your own. There are special toothpastes that are flavored so the
dogs actually learn to like it! NEVER USE HUMAN GRADE TOOTHPASTE ON PETS, AS
IT CAN KILL THEM! If neither of those things are the culprit, it could be
anal glands. These are glands on either side of the rectum and are supposed to
lubricate when the dog has a bowel movement. However, sometimes these glands get
impacted and need to be drained. Your Groomer or vet can help you with this. And
sometimes, when dogs get excited or scared, like during a bath or while being
blow-dried, they will express these glands on their own, producing a musky, and
sometimes quite fowl odor which is definitely strong enough to negate your bath!
If none of these seem to be your problem, then a trip to the vet is definitely
in order. Several skin diseases can be smelled before they can be seen.
8.
I heard onions were bad for dogs; similar to
chocolate. Is that true?
Yes, especially raw ones. They are toxic and can kill your dog. Another bad
food that so many people give as treats are grapes! Also cherries, cranberries,
raisins…
9.
Can I give my dog Tylenol as a pain reliever?
NO!! A dog can tolerate aspirin, but NOT Tylenol. DO NOT
give EITHER product to a cat. Please call your vet or a local
emergency vet if you believe that your pet is in pain and needs medication for
it. Pain is a symptom of a problem, and you want to get to the root of the
problem instead of just getting rid of the pain. Pain relief can often mask a
serious medical problem.
10.
I trimmed my dog's toenail too short and it
began to bleed... HELP!
There are many styptic powders available and you should have one on hand
BEFORE you start to trim nails. However, if you don't have any, get a pinch
of cornstarch between your thumb and forefinger and apply it to the nail. Pack
it on the end of the nail and hold the pressure for a minute or two, or until
the bleeding stops. The dog won't like having to be still that long, but be
persistent.
11.
Is there any kind of shampoo or conditioner that
will prevent mats?
No, Sorry. BRUSH! BRUSH! BRUSH! COMB! COMB! COMB! There are a few products that
can help you out while you are brushing and combing, but non that will magically
de-mat your dog.
12.
What's the best kind of hair brush to use on my
long haired dog?
A "pin" brush is good if you brush daily. Otherwise, you're going to need a
"slicker" brush to remove small tangles and debris from the coat. Your brush
(pin or slicker) should have metal tines, and should not have any little
“ball tips” at the end as this actually produces static electricity in the coat
and that helps to form mats in the coat. So do all plastic or nylon bristle
brushes. Sadly, this is the most common type of brush being sold to most pet
owners.
Another vital tool is a metal toothed comb. You should always check the
coat after you think it is brushed out. The metal comb should glide through the
coat with ease, not getting caught in any small tangles. If you encounter a
tangle, get out the brush and get through it. Combs come in 3 types. Fine tooth,
medium tooth, and coarse tooth. If your dog has a silky coat, (Yorkie, Maltese)
a fine tooth will work best, and if your dog has a thick or curly coat, (poodle,
bichon) a coarse toothed comb will work best. If your pet has a medium coat, (pom,
peke, cocker) not too fine and not too thick, then a medium comb will work best
for you. For long haired dogs, I highly recommend a pure boar bristle brush.
This brush, if used on a regular basis will help to bring out the natural oils
that occur in your dogs skin, thus promoting a healthy shiny coat that will
actually repel dirt and dust, keeping the dog cleaner, and healthier over all.